A WEEK IN: COMPORTA

Just over an hour from Lisbon is Portugal's best kept secret and Europe's answer to the Hamptons. Comporta is a quaint town lined with a long stretch of unspoiled beaches and large nature reserves, boutique shops, Michelin Guide restaurants and strict development rules that have allowed this area to preserve its natural beauty and authenticity. See our guide to this unique oasis below.

EAT & DRINK

With the golden sands of Praia do Carvalhal just 10 minutes away, chances are we’re lunching on the beach. Sublime Beach Club is the laid back lunch spot of the Sublime Hotel; a boho beach restaurant with rustic wooden tables and large woven lampshades, tiered decking outside for the sun worshipers and a boutique shop inside - dangerous after a few too many vinho verdes. The menu is Mediterranean with Central and South American influences which on our short visit, we decided to avoid and opted for a classic seafood paella. Pop to the beachfront bar and grab a cocktail to-go and enjoy the late afternoon sun. 

Across the boardwalk is SAL, having upgraded their space and beachfront location since our last visit, the restaurant spills out onto the sand, shaded by chic striped parasols, and serves up freshly grilled seafood.

Back in town, our first meal was at A Cegonha, a local spot with a menu of classic Portuguese cuisine with the likes of Arroz de Marisco and coriander clams. Initially known for its local supermarket, Gomez has grown its presence opening the restaurant arm in 2018. The wooden sunhouse opens out to the street with sweet deck chairs and parasols, serving up elevated local dishes, our favourite was the Bacalao à Bras, dried and salted codfish with egg yolk and crispy onions. 

Cavalariça is a Michelin Guide restaurant located in the old horse stables at the centre of town and puts an innovative twist on their modern Portuguese menu. The interiors are stables-chic with out of place pipe light fixtures bringing a considered contrast to the rustic booths. On our last night we stumbled across Mesa, an experimental restaurant set in what was previously the town police station - window railings still intact - with locally sourced ingredients and market driven dishes. This was by far our favourite meal. 

There are plenty of bars in the town for pre/post dinner drinks. On Saturday night we headed to Piadinas Zanotta which feels like an open air living room with worn sofas, large armchairs and vintage rugs. Outside a resident DJ plays with a food truck tucked around the corner for late night snacks. For a view of the rice fields, Hotel AlmaLusa has the only rooftop in town, perfect for sunset drinks. During the day, Almo is a boho natural wine bar with an incredible tree centrepiece surrounded by lounge area and seating and is a perfect spot to share a bottle of wine - we tried their Orange and it was like none we have tried before. So smooth!

STAY

Although Comporta is only an hour from Lisbon and can easily be a day trip, we’d recommend staying a few nights to fully experience what this area has to offer. We stayed one night in AlmaLusa*,a boutique hotel just 2 minute’s walk from the centre of town, complete with pool, rooftop bar and spa with a natural aesthetic that blends perfectly with the rustic landscape. 

For the rest of our stay we moved just out of town to Casas de Arroz**, composed of 4 cabins that make up one very secluded villa complex that sleeps up to 12 people. The private pool overlooks the nature reserve and each cabin has their own terrace and kitchenette with planting to compliment the surrounding reserve. The property also provides free bikes so we cycled into town for dinner each evening - no designated drivers here ! 

On a previous visit we stayed in the gorgeous Spatia Hotel, a minimalist hotel tucked away in the woodlands. Every corner of this resort is designed beautifully and perfectly marries together nature with luxe living. 

THINGS TO DO

Shopping

As if this town couldn't get any better, the shopping will have you leaving with a heavier suitcase and lighter wallet. A Casa da Culture market open most days and is full of local artists and designers, Portuguese pottery and cork boards from the forests. The life juice is connected to Mesa, with cabinets of tableware from some of our favourite Portuguese brands and counters of jewellery by small designers.

Beaches

Praia de Carvalhal is part of the 60km coastline that is full of beach clubs and beachfront bars and is an easy 10 minute drive from Comporta town.

Praia de Gale is at the bottom of a dramatic stretch of cliff face with a precarious set of wooden steps that descends to the sand. The location can be a little tricky to find, see the google maps link here.

*Hotels.com paid for this stay

**Vrbo paid for this stay