A WEEK IN: HVAR

It's the summer we turn 30 and to celebrate we headed to this special little island off the Dalmatian coast for some euro summer fun, girls in tow. Having lured us in with its crystal clear waters, secluded bays and beach clubs, the town also offers 13th century hilltop fortresses, winding cobbled streets and plenty of buzzy restaurants. Read on for our ultimate guide to Hvar…

WHERE TO EAT & DRINK

COFFEE/BREAKFAST

Each morning we headed straight to Kava, a minimalist coffee roasters, for our morning brew and were met with more regulars than tourists. Something about the heat does what no willpower can do at home, and switches off our need to yam food down us from the moment we wake up. We tend not to need anything more than a pastry on the go, and Kantun was a cute spot on the corner in the old town with fresh juices & pastries, and equally successful were the no-frills bakeries behind the Hvar Green Market, Pekara Panino and Pekara Kraljica Mira, where we grabbed some potato, cheese and meat bureks for the ferry. Around another corner, there is Fig for when we fancy a breakfast burrito. 

LUNCH

On holiday, chances are we are having lunch on the beach. The beauty of Hvar is that the stretch of wild and rocky coves that wrap around the island are punctuated with ladders for easy access, and make for a scenic coastal walk. Stroll clockwise from Hvar Town, and when you think you’ve strolled too far, stroll a little further until you stumble across Falko. Nestled in the pine trees with sails dappling the shade, this relaxed beach bar has daybeds teetering on rocks, great local food and cocktails and was our favourite spot for a lazy afternoon. 

You know what they say, all the best beaches are accessible only by boat. And seeing as we were living our best lives on a euro summer girls trip, boat day was a necessity. We hired a RIB boat through SamBoat, complete with skipper, turquoise blue bays and visits to hidden beach restaurants like Laganini where we stopped for a leisurely lunch of fresh fish and grilled vegetables. This chic spot is found on a quiet bay of the Pakleni Islands, nestled in the trees, and is the first of the exclusive spots you need to have on your radar.

The second boat-only access spot on your radar should be Calma; tucked further up the coast from Hvar Town, it is just 10 minutes and about €60 return by taxi boat. We were blessed to find the bar has free sun loungers if you’re drinking so the aperols and hugos were flowing freely. We would highly recommend heading to Calma for romantic sundowners. Especially as they don’t serve food - we found out the hard way but luckily the owners organised a lift to an even more serene bay that did have a restaurant. We didn’t expect much, being the only restaurant for miles, but Konoba Mareta is a true hidden gem with just a handful of tables overlooking the crystal clear waters and enchanting pine forest beyond. There is no menu other than what they have fresh that day whether that is day-boat fish or choice of meat and a side of charred seasonal veg, all cooked to perfection on the open flame. As if this bay couldn’t get any more whimsical, we were graced with the presence of a deer lapping at the lake-like shore. 

DINNER

Hvar Town has a romantic buzz both day and night, brimming with beautiful restaurants that come alive when the sun goes down. Sharing the Adriatic, traditional dishes are influenced a lot by its neighbours. Think Greece and Italy’s love child; soparnik (similar to spanikopita), beef stew gnocchi (pašticada) and black risotto. 

One such establishment preserving the local cuisine is Mediterraneo. This family-run restaurant was the first to open in Hvar town 1953 and still stands strong, set within the idyllic stone courtyard. This Michelin guide restaurant specialises in local Istrian dishes with a focus on fresh fish. Dalmatino is a family-run restaurant just a stone’s throw from the picturesque port where we demolished a stunning octopus carpaccio and black shrimp gnocchi. 

Black Pepper is found up in the winding cobbled streets, known for its experimental take on the traditional dishes. For full disclosure, we haven't had a chance to eat here yet, not for want of trying. We couldn’t get a booking and when we did, there was a powercut! But we’ve only heard great things about this restaurant and it will be first on the agenda when we next visit. 

For a fuss-free and fun meal, Lola’s is a lively bar serving street food, good vibes and a banging throwback playlist. 

Hula Hula is a staple in Hvar, we dare you to walk past and not end up staying for a drink. Hugging the rocks, this beach bar is the ideal sunset spot. While we did feel about 100 years old, it's the perfect livener to keep the vibes up.

WHAT TO DO

Yes, what to do when there are endless coves, sparkling seas and 30° …tough one. Here

BEACHES 

Each morning we went for a dip down by the wild coastline - and if like us, you’re not interested in playing human tetras on the rocks, there are sunbeds albeit precariously placed but it’s all part of the fun. Along the coastal path, there are small pebbled bays and bathing platforms one way, and beach clubs and inflatable courses the other. 

BEACH CLUBS

Choose from Falko, the casual beach bar and restaurant nestled in the pine trees, sweet serene Calmo only accessible by boat, the infamous Hula Hula for a lively sunset or Carpe Diem on one of the nearby islands for a whole day of boujie beach bed behaviour. Honestly Carpe Diem was our favourite day. Grab a return water taxi to the island, get a cabana and let the rose fizz flow freely. 

INFLATABLE COURSE

We had our eyes on this from day one but seeing as this trip was for our 30th birthdays, we thought it best to save our bodies for the last day. Our bruises from boat day the day got in there first though.

BOAT DAY

Is it a girls trip without boat day? We found ours on SamBoat which has plenty of boats to choose from - our must-haves were they had to have a skipper and have enough room for activities (read: twerking and taking tiktoks)! Our skipper met us in the port and took us on a bay-hopping adventure around the neighbouring Pakleni Islands with the most turquoise waters you can imagine.

WHERE TO STAY

On both occasions we’ve opted for self-catering Airbnbs so we can fully immerse ourselves in what the town has to offer. Both Airbnbs we’ve stayed in are linked here & here and were great budget friendly options.

On our previous visit we took a short drive North to check into a bucket list property, Little Green Bay. The small 15 room boutique hotel is located in a secluded bay, surrounded by pine trees and delivers understated luxury, except polished concrete floors, linen bedding, earthy tones and outdoor showers. The restaurant is set over two levels to give maximum views of the pristine bay with a menu that consists of simple & delicious Mediterranean cuisine. The pebbled beach is adorned with black canvas lounges, parasols and giant bean bags that float in the sea. It’s the little touches that impress us the most, straw sun hats, suncream and board games were available for guests to use during their stay as well as paddle boards & canoes to explore the bay. Immersed in the sounds of nature it’s easy to forget this authentic guesthouse is a short 10 minute drive from bustling Hvar town.

HOW TO GET THERE 

We flew into Split airport and made our way into the city and straight to the port. The journey from airport to city is around 40  minutes and can be done via cab for €60-80 or shuttle buses on a tighter budget, running every half an hour. Once in Split, we headed to the port and bought ferry tickets on site. These can also be bought in advance online and cost around €25. The ferry takes an hour before arriving in Hvar old town.