A WEEKEND IN: COPENHAGEN

thistimelastweekblog
May 11
4 min read

Our first girly vacay together since our travels to New Zealand and where better to reunite than Copenhagen, aka THE capital of the cool girl !! Yes it is a vibrant city known for its rich history, stunning architecture and unique design, but we can't lie, the restaurant scene played a massive part. We visited over Easter weekend and while everything else was closed, eateries remained open so we actually managed to come back with some recommendations. In a city where 7 out of 10 Danes own a bike, it is no wonder we felt so safe in the cycle lanes so while the recs may appear spread out, anything is possible on two wheels.

BAKERIES

If a pastry is getting named after a country, you best believe there will be bakeries aplenty. We had our first Danish pastry, topped with custard which is traditionally called a Spandauer, at Andersen & Maillard. In Denmark, the day starts with a breakfast plate consisting of sourdough, rye bread, whipped butter and thick slices of cheese. A gorgeous spot for this is Riviera, a modern bakery from chef Chiarra Barla with a relaxed central table creating a warm and homely vibe. We also tried the rice porridge here with homemade jam, almond butter and dulce de leche which was a delicious start to the day. Apotek 57 is another design-led bakery curated by chef Barla, located inside the Frama studio stores it has a more minimal aesthetic. Atelier September is a cult favourite with two locations and vintage crockery. It was a challenge to find a coffee shop that didn’t serve only filter coffee but eventually found La Cabra. Our final breakfast in the city was at Juno The Bakery where visiting over the quiet bank holiday paid off.

RESTAURANTS

Copenhagen is not short of buzzy restaurants. The New Nordic Food movement of 2004 marked a pivotal moment, with top chefs from the Nordic countries signing the declaration, rolling out seasonality and a focus on hyperlocal produce at Copenhagen’s core making this one culinary hotspot. To our surprise, our hunt pre- and mid-trip uncovered modern Italian dining spots more than anything and we still aren’t 100% sure but we can assume that chefs from all over were inspired by the chance to break traditions. You also can’t get away from natural wines, well we certainly couldn’t!

Bar Amore is one of those spots; cool crowd and the setting unfussy with the off-white awning painting the restaurant in shades of a summer’s evening. Simple but strong pasta dishes - the striking bisque paccheri and ricotta ravioli are a must - that pair well with their adventurous cocktails and natural wines. All-day cafe Villette serves seasonal small plates, featuring clean scandi interiors and an open kitchen. Outside in the homely back garden, the courtyard is heaving on a sunny day and is the perfect place for lunch and a glass of wine - natural of course. We never thought we’d live a day in Dua Lipa’s shoes but here we are - one of her favourite drinking spots in Copenhagen is Pompette , a distressed and humble natural wine bar with a curated list of just 5 bottles. Inside is deceivingly spacious but you want to grab a bistro chair outside and watch the day go by. Next door is sister restaurant Poulette, a fried chicken sandwich shop, and another favourite of Dua’s, serving the crispiest breaded chicken we’ve ever had. It comes in a soft brioche bun with plenty of gherkins but watch out it packs a punch with its spicy sauce. Bar Moro is an all-day bistro and is the perfect spot for a long lunch; gorgeous stripped-back decor and simple seasonal dishes. Lamar is an intimate and inviting spot in Vesterbro - previously the red light district, now a sought-after neighbourhood - with a vibey playlist, candle lit tables and a huge disco ball. For our final dinner we booked into Barr which takes over the spot previously held by the famous michelin-star Noma…not big boots to fill at all. This waterfront spot has a focus on Northern European cuisine like their salted waffles with baked mussels and Schnitzel with the functional stainless steel open kitchen balanced out by their alpine interiors. Our must order is the whole roast chicken, we don’t know how they got it so juicy but it was the best chicken we’ve eaten.

STAY

We spent our first night at Hotel Bella Grande,* a charming boutique hotel 2 minutes from the famous Tivoli Gardens. The design leans heavy on Italian nostalgia with a large open courtyard in the heart of the property, the extension to their bold Italian restaurant, Donna.

For our final two nights, we checked into Klosteret,** a beautifully restored four story townhouse hidden behind heavy wooden doors in the heart of the city. Named after the historic street it sits on, Klosteret blends Scandinavian design with the property's charming period details. With three spacious bedrooms and a fully equipped kitchen, it had everything we needed to live life like a local.